At the Girl’s Room
Keywords: Research-based Project, Feminism, Interactive Video Art, Lolita Culture
Zhuhai, 2022
Lolita, as a subcultural costume, originated in Japan during the 1970s and 1980s. Its design style is typical of Rococo costume style in the 18th century. Some people think that the appearance of Lolita costumes is an objection to the increasingly exposed fashion aesthetics. Still, now Lolita's rebellious spirit has been gradually misunderstood and is criticized as a kind of androcentric costumes. In my opinion, this is the result of a patriarchal society where men master the discourse.
As a branch of subculture, Lolita has a strong feminine temperament. However, with the Japanese "flattering otaku" culture and the popularity of the TikTok short video platform, Lolita has gradually evolved into a dress with a strong role of seducing men from the public perspective. The work is in the tone of the girl's own narrative. The process of filming and acting out the girl's thoughts on screen gives the viewer an immersive feeling, while the combination with vintage collages intertwines reality and fantasy. By selecting different imaginary scenarios through interactive clicking, I invite the audience and girls to think together.
The mood board of this work, sweet but a bit aggressive
This is a 5-minute interactive art video, which aims to reveal the embodiment of the male gaze in Lolita culture and the reflection of the author. The project consists of five fragments: At the Room (reality), A World Without Vision (imagination), A World Without Pornography (imagination), A World Without Men (imagination), and On the Street (reality).
Background Research:
- Male Gaze:
Cavallaro (2001) defined the concept of gaze describes a form of power related to vision. In this case, the male gaze refers to a psychological mechanism that materialises women into appreciation and makes them sexually desirable. This kind of gaze has been everywhere in patriarchal society for a long time. It is not only an expression of male desire but also a means of disciplining power. Under this kind of gaze, women's bodies and minds are subject to double discipline.
- Lolita in China：
Through the spread of Japanese culture, Lolita culture has gradually become popular in China. Due to the influence of the male gaze, Lolita is often regarded as a tool for flattering men. It is also occasionally criticized as sexual dressing on the Internet.
Cultural Analysis:
- The Lolita Dress:
The feminine clothing characteristics of Lolita Lolita has a complex composition structure. The following will analyse the three most feminine parts: hemline, shoes, and ornaments.
1. Hemline: The most significant shape feature that distinguishes Lolita from other dresses is that the hemline is bell-shaped or A-shaped, with a certain sense of volume. The inspiration for this style comes from the rococo era. For example, the women's long skirts Mantua and Polonaise, which were popular in European courts from the end of the 17th century to the 18th century, both adopted the pattern design of embellishing the waist and hip curves of the wearer with the inflated and exaggerated bell-shaped hemline.
2. Shoes: The shoes in Lolita's clothing are exquisitely high-heeled and highly feminine. High heels can highlight the static beauty of women. Because the centre of gravity moves forward, the feet can support the women's chest and hips, making the body more symmetrical (Wang, 2018).
3. Ornament: Bows are also an essential feature of the Lolita style. A bow refers to a decorative knot that looks like a butterfly. The bow's fluffy, soft character and unique cultural connotations give Lolita a lovely, youthful, and elegant style.
- Interview of the Insiders:
Age 22 | college student | 3 years of Lolita Dressing Practice: The skirt itself is very beautiful, I will buy it even if it doesn't fit my figure.
Age 27| Illustrator | 2 years of Lolita Dressing Practice: Like fulfilling the childhood princess dream in actions;
Age 45 | clerk | 5 years of Lolita Dressing Practice: Eyecatching, it satisfies the vanity of the teenage years, and Lolita people will be more confident on the streets.
It can be seen from the interview that many females choose to wear Lolita dresses of their own will rather than the so-called flattering mentality.